General Window Maintenance

Cleaning Glass Surfaces

Apply a mild soap or vinegar-based cleaner to the glass, either by spraying or using a clean, grit-free cloth or sponge saturated with cleaning solution. Avoid using ammonia or alcohol-based cleaners, which can cause streaking. Be careful not to damage glazing, frame finish, wood components or insulating unit seals by overgenerous application of cleaners. In addition, comply with the cleaner manufacturer's directions on label for toxicity, handling and flammability warnings.

Wipe the cleaning solutions on the glass in a circular motion, applying light to moderate pressure. If streaks appear, rinse surface with clean water. Using a clean, lint-free cloth, wipe dry the interior glazing surfaces, including any interior frame or hardware components to prevent spotting....



 or water damage.

To clean grease, oil, tape adhesive, crayons or paint, apply a small amount of mild abrasive, or acetone (mineral spirits) to a clean, wet cloth of towel and rub only the affected area. Repeat cleaning steps listed above once complete.

Tip: Glass should be cleaned by starting at the top of the building and systematically working down to glass installed on lower levels. This technique reduces the possibility of residue and cleaning solution rundown on glass previously cleaned.

Cleaning Exterior Frame

The exterior surfaces of frames may collect a layer of surface dirt over time, depending on your local environmental conditions.

Under most conditions, occasional rainfall should be sufficient to remove accumulative dirt on exterior surfaces. However in conditions with smog, excess smoke or dirt, the exterior surfaces should be cleaned more regularly to prevent damage to exterior finishes or discoloration.

Use a mild soap or diluted detergent solution with clean, warm water, and wipe surfaces gently using a clean cloth, soft bristle brush, or low pressure spray cleaner. Rinse surfaces thoroughly with clean water before soap or detergent dries.

Cleaning Hardware

Clean and lubricate hardware components regularly to prevent excess wear on hardware gears. Use a diluted household cleaner and wipe clean all hardware a component, including locks, hinges, operator arms, and handles. Always rinse hardware with clean water to remove any detergent or cleaner prior to lubricating.

To lubricate rotary drive hardware, use lithium grease, automotive grease, or Petroleum jelly.

To lubricate hinges and rollers: use silicone based lubricants Avoid using petroleum based lubricants.

Cleaning Screens

Follow exterior surface cleaning instructions for all exterior screens. Interior mounted screens can be vacuumed with a soft brush attachment or wiped with a soap & water solution. Use caution when removing and handling screens. Torn insect screens or bent screen bars are not covered by warranty.

Tip: An easy way to clean a screen is to remove it and lay it down on a flat surface. Apply a cleaning solution to the screen and let it soak for a minute. Then, rinse the screen using a low pressure spray, such as a garden hose.

Painting and Staining

Our products are designed to last with proper maintenance and care. Any unfinished or exposed wood surface, including the perimeter of the face and ends of the sash, frame and panel, must be painted or stained within 7 days of installation. Prior to painting or staining, clean surfaces of any debris, dirt or residue and ensure surfaces are completely dry.

Paint Grade Wood Extensions

Paint grade wood extensions are factory primed, and require a minimum of 2 coats of high quality paint. (Note: Half-round and curved jamb extensions are not factory primed, and should be primed prior to painting.)

Stain Grade Wood Extensions

Stain grade wood extensions are made using pacific hemlock and should have a sanding sealer (or pre-stain) applied prior to staining to prevent blotching. Apply 1 or 2 coats of stain, with a top coat of laquer or varnish.

Steel Insulated Door Slabs

Steel insulated door skins are factory primed, and require a minimum of 2 coats of high quality exterior paint. Mask off hardware, remove bottom door sweep and paint all six (6) surfaces of the door slab, including the interior and exterior surface, top, bottom, and both sides of the door stiles.

Do not close or lock door slab until completely dry.

Surface Preparation for Steel Insulated Door Slabs

To ensure good adhesion, the pre-primed surface should be lightly roughened to break the surface using 200 Grit sandpaper in the flat areas and steel wool along the embossments. The surface should be cleaned to remove dirt, foreign debris, oils, etc. with phosphate cleaner (TSP), then wiped dry with a clean towel.

Painting Steel Insulated Door Slabs

Post paint systems such as Acrylic Latex, Alkyd (solvent base) and two-part Urethanes have been successfully used to re-coat the above pre-painted finishes. It is very important to follow the paint manufacturer’s recommended application procedures to ensure the best results. Factors such as surface temperature, relative humidity, dew point and paint thickness play important roles when applying any post paint system. It is the responsibility of the applicator to ensure that the application procedure and conditions comply with the manufacturers recommendations.

Painting steel insulated door slabs black or other dark colors is NOT recommended due to the possibility of warping due to excessive heat. The same applies to non-ventilated storm doors due to excessive heat build-up.

Door Lite Insert Frames

Door lite frames must be finished using a light colored acrylic or alkyd based paint. Mask off glazing and door slab and paint or stain exterior and interior frame surfaces with at least 2 coats of paint (white frames), or 1 to 2 coats of stain with a top coat of lacquer or varnish (stain grade frames).

Interior Condensation

Surface Condensation

Each person has his or her own preference regarding the humidity level in his or her home. If the occupants insist on a high level of humidity within the house, surface condensation must be expected when outside temperatures are low. Some indications of surface condensation are:

• Frost on door handles and hinges, or door frozen shut
• Water or ice on windows
• Damp spots on walls and ceiling
• Damp spots on closet walls
• Moisture on light fixtures
• Moisture on water closets
• Moisture on cold water pipes, walls and floors.

Some humidity is necessary for comfort and health. In many homes, it is a struggle to keep enough moisture inside the home to maintain an acceptable humidity level for the occupants. Frequently, humidifiers are installed to add moisture to the air, but their use must be controlled or surface condensation problems may result. Unfortunately, a dry house may indicate a high leakage rate (depending on the amount of moisture added by the homeowner), which can contribute to concealed condensation.

In some newer homes, however, air leakage is controlled so well that removing moisture from the house becomes a problem. This problem is made worse by the use of humidifiers, resulting in condensation on windows, mold growth, or damp spots on ceilings and room-side surfaces of exterior walls.

Because windows do not provide much resistance to heat loss, they are often the coldest component of a building enclosure, and can be an indicator of humidity problems. Because condensation occurs on inside window surfaces whenever the surface temperature falls below the dew point temperature of the room air, window condensation may signal a need to reduce the humidity level in your home.

What Can Affect the Performance of Windows?

(The following may cause condensation to form on a window)

Air Circulation - a window may be in an area in which there is poor circulation of warm air. This means that the temperature of the inside glass surface is colder than in other parts of the home and this may cause condensation to form at humidity levels which are practical for the rest of the home.

Drapes - based on natural circulation of warm air on the inside surface of the window. By drawing heavy drapes or venetian blinds over a window or patio door the possibility of condensation can be increased because the flow of warm air is restricted.

Varying Humidity Levels - remember that the humidity in some rooms, kitchens and bathrooms in particular, can be higher than in other areas of the home, thus encouraging condensation to form on the windows in these rooms.

Orientation - if windows are exposed to prevailing winds, then they will be slightly colder than the other windows in the home and may cause condensation to form at humidity levels which are practical for the rest of the home.

Exposure - some windows in the home may be protected by other buildings, trees, etc., which form a windbreak while others are totally exposed to the wind and, therefore, colder.

Exterior Condensation

With high performance glazing it is possible, under certain conditions, to have condensation on the outside of the glazing. The glazing radiates to the sky and on a clear night that can reduce the temperature of the outside surface to below the dew point. Condensation will form similarly to the condensation on a car windshield and, once the sun comes up, the condensation will disappear.

The phenomenon is only possible when the glazing unit high performance and little heat is being transmitted to the outer surface. It is not likely to occur on a cloudy night.